A bra that fits - Kwik Sew 3594

It took me a few days, and a few modifications, but I have an almost perfect fitting bra.  Not 100% perfect as there are a few techniques I still need to work on.

The cover of the the Kwik Sew 3594 pattern is quite boring and utilitarian, the band is horizontal, but I had such good luck with the 34D that I had to run with it.

The tweaks I made were to make the cup the tiniest bigger.  I added about 1/4" to the apex in the lower cup, then spread the upper cup to match.  I also raised the underarm seam about 3/8".  I added maybe 1/2" to the band in the back.

I put it on at the same time as my favorite Wacoal bra, and it looks like I maybe need to raise the underarm still another 1/4" to 1/3".  I also did not add boning to the side, as I didn't have any at the time, but I do prefer the boning.  I also didn't need the extra 1/2" on the back of the band.

One other area for me to work on is no band under the bottom of the cups, I need to sew the elastic closer as it will roll on me (just a wee bit chubby in that area.)  I also need better strapping materials, in fact, I really need to do some online shopping.

I'm wearing it right now and will wear it all day.

The other day I hit the thrift shop and actually purchased 3 bras and a bustier (for the boning).  Turns out the bottom bra in the picture fits me perfectly.  The tag says Venus 80D and I haven't looked up the equivalent size. The middle bra is a 36D and the cup is too flat for me, and the top pink bra fits well too, though I can't read the size.  And funny thing is, I didn't try any on, just bought them to examine and for parts. 

And I really like the side boning on the bottom bra, the Venus 80D, it has double boning.  I will definitely want to try that myself.