A Perfect Fit - KwikSew 2101

The bra is done and it is a perfect fit.  I'm wearing it now to test out during the day.  Here's the link to the review:

KwikSew 2101 review on PR

I'll post my photos, and you can all see me in my glory, eek.

Not too shabby huh?  I'm just glad to be done because the Sure-Fit kit I ordered arrived today and I want to start playing with that.  First things first, tidy up after this project, do a few things around the house, and then I can play, yea!!!!

KwikSew 2101 and rambling on

You might be wondering how my pants drafting went....fine....the paper is still on the table.  I never went any farther than that.  The draft looks great though, like it just might fit.  I kept reading online and found the Sure-Fit Design System which appears to be basically the same, just more updated, so guess what I did?  Yup, went and purchased it.  I ordered the 3-kit combo and will discuss it once I receive it.

So what to do until it comes, start a new bra of course.

I don't have photos yet as I just got started, but instead of working on the one I did most recently I pulled out a pattern I hadn't done yet, KwikSew 2101

I have not yet made a bra where the top portion is fully lace (not underlined) or without a full band.  Since the last bra was a 34D I'm doing this one as a 34D also, and will worry about the fit after the fact.

So far I have the cups sewn, the bands attached and the casing attached.  I'll work on it some more tomorrow.

I can already tell it's not as supportive due to the type of band, but I won't be able to analyze it fully till completed.

Lingerie Contest

I got my entry for the Pattern Review Lingerie Contest completed last night.  Here's the link to the review.

It's the same bra as in the previous posts, just a different fabric, no major changes to the pattern, just the center front on the fold instead of a seam.

I also did a review of Kwik Sew 2467, camisole and panties.  The pattern also includes a slip.  I found the pattern simple and straight forward.  I really like that the panties have a single back seam, so I want to really work on this pattern to make separate TNTs for different fabrics.  I'll also make a couple more camisoles as they will be nice to wear under my hand knit sweaters.

I really had fun getting involved in the Lingerie contest again and my sewing mojo is back.  I haven't knitted all week (that is bad!)  I'm contemplating joining the Vintage Pattern contest for November.

A bra that fits - Kwik Sew 3594

It took me a few days, and a few modifications, but I have an almost perfect fitting bra.  Not 100% perfect as there are a few techniques I still need to work on.

The cover of the the Kwik Sew 3594 pattern is quite boring and utilitarian, the band is horizontal, but I had such good luck with the 34D that I had to run with it.

The tweaks I made were to make the cup the tiniest bigger.  I added about 1/4" to the apex in the lower cup, then spread the upper cup to match.  I also raised the underarm seam about 3/8".  I added maybe 1/2" to the band in the back.

I put it on at the same time as my favorite Wacoal bra, and it looks like I maybe need to raise the underarm still another 1/4" to 1/3".  I also did not add boning to the side, as I didn't have any at the time, but I do prefer the boning.  I also didn't need the extra 1/2" on the back of the band.

One other area for me to work on is no band under the bottom of the cups, I need to sew the elastic closer as it will roll on me (just a wee bit chubby in that area.)  I also need better strapping materials, in fact, I really need to do some online shopping.

I'm wearing it right now and will wear it all day.

The other day I hit the thrift shop and actually purchased 3 bras and a bustier (for the boning).  Turns out the bottom bra in the picture fits me perfectly.  The tag says Venus 80D and I haven't looked up the equivalent size. The middle bra is a 36D and the cup is too flat for me, and the top pink bra fits well too, though I can't read the size.  And funny thing is, I didn't try any on, just bought them to examine and for parts. 

And I really like the side boning on the bottom bra, the Venus 80D, it has double boning.  I will definitely want to try that myself.

The Bra Saga ~ a new muslin

I had intended to show what a marvelous masking tape "boob" dummy I had made (and yes, I do have the photos) but when I went to cut it up, it was still too curvy.

So I went to the drawing board and decided to start from scratch.  Oh...I have a pattern that I've never used, a quite "unattractive" bra pattern, to say the least.

Here it is.  Kwik Sew 3594.

Quite blah and boring, and very utilitarian looking, don't you think?  But look harder, doesn't it look just like the Wacoal bra in my previous post that I LOVE so much.  I guess I never realized my seam runs horizontally, maybe it's just the way my bosom works best.

So....I decided to start from scratch like I said, and follow a new pattern.  I cut out the size 34 D (my current size) and followed the instructions.  I don't know about you, but it's sometimes hard to follow instructions when you know so much.

Guess what, I'm wearing it now...3 hours later.  I purposely made sure none of the colors matched, that I used odd bobbins of thread and laces.  And it fits damn well.  

Of course, I did learn something.  I learned WHY we used plush elastics...this thing itches.  

My goal in the next week is to make up a couple more.  Keep it simple, work on my technique and fit.  Then I would like to branch out and make it more perfect.

I'm attaching the photos.  Yes, that's me in all my chubby belly glory.  The point is that it fits. There is a microscopic bit of too smallishness right at the center front where the band doesn't sit absolutely against my sternum.  Guess what...my fave bra doesn't either.  I'm going to attempt to add the little bit to the size before I switch fabrics.

KwikSew 3300 for Kaylyn

Kaylyn is my 20 year old daughter with a lovely bustline (ha ha...she's going to kill me for that.) She also has a taste for fancy (i.e. expensive) lingerie. It will be fun to perfect a bra for her. My stepdaughter is waiting patiently in line for me to sew one for her too.

The pattern we chose to start with is KwikSew 3300. It is a young stylish design with the vertical seaming. I'm still reading about the different seaming in "The Bra-makers Manual." There is so much to learn.


I measured her as instructed (and it's the same in the book mentioned above) which would have put her at a 36C. She said she buys 32DD's sometimes 32D. The cup size is equivalent, so I traced out the 32D cup and we went for it. The cup seemed to fit okay when we held it over her bust.

I sewed up the entire bra in 32D except for attaching straps, and when she tried it on, the center front piece was too wide for her bust. Darn, so since it was supposed to be a muslin (ha ha) I cut it in half, took out as much as I could, sewed it back together, then covered the seam.

Here's the original bra before redoing the center front section:

And afterwards (when I do it again, I will have the underwires almost touching):



This is the final bra with the straps attached. I don't have any rings or sliders, and a personalized bra doesn't actually need them. The only issue I'm having is that the fashion fabric lining the lower cup is actually stretching out more than the lining fabric, so I'm getting a bit of bunching. I'll have to work on that issue. The top cup is lined in the same fabric, which is a very stretchy ITY. I thought the stretchy fabric would be good for Kaylyn as her breasts are noticeably different sized (to her at least.) She doesn't need to worry about support at this time.


And for the puppy photos for today: