Bra Sewing - Pattern by BravoBella

My serger has been in at the spa (I need to go pick it up) and while it was gone I decided to work on bra sewing as I don't use a serger for that.

Last summer I was working with the BravoBella#2 pattern but didn't get much farther than my practice bras.  I made a new practice bra which turned out 2 cup sizes too small based on my measurements.  Bras are like that, our fat is distributed in different way and you can't just expect one to fit.

So I made my one that didn't fit, then I made another one, just plain using the recommended fabrics.  I've made 4 more since and they all fit well.  The ITY print one is a bit wonky over the bust point.  I knew the fabrics would be thicker, I was kind of thinking "sports bra" and with 3 layers I thought I might need a smidge more size, so I cut the pieces just a tiny bit bigger.  That was a mistake as it just got bunchy.  I did a smaller band though and it fits well.

Here are a few photos, if you want to see more you can follow one to the flickr album.

Winning a contest on Pattern Review - it's so much fun!

Thanks to everyone who voted for my entry in the Lingerie Contest on Pattern Review.  I'm excited that I took second place with my gorgeous combination shown below:

I really do enjoy sewing bras, it's just such a feeling of accomplishment once it's done and when it fits perfectly it's even better.  I will admit it is a bit daunting to first try, but give it a go, and see what you come up with.

My winnings were any pattern for free from Pattern Review and I ordered the Angela Wolf Angel Boot Jean.  I got it today and it looks like a terrific pattern.

I'm looking forward to working on it soon, but I will need to order some nice new denim.

A Perfect Fit - KwikSew 2101

The bra is done and it is a perfect fit.  I'm wearing it now to test out during the day.  Here's the link to the review:

KwikSew 2101 review on PR

I'll post my photos, and you can all see me in my glory, eek.

Not too shabby huh?  I'm just glad to be done because the Sure-Fit kit I ordered arrived today and I want to start playing with that.  First things first, tidy up after this project, do a few things around the house, and then I can play, yea!!!!

Lingerie Contest

I got my entry for the Pattern Review Lingerie Contest completed last night.  Here's the link to the review.

It's the same bra as in the previous posts, just a different fabric, no major changes to the pattern, just the center front on the fold instead of a seam.

I also did a review of Kwik Sew 2467, camisole and panties.  The pattern also includes a slip.  I found the pattern simple and straight forward.  I really like that the panties have a single back seam, so I want to really work on this pattern to make separate TNTs for different fabrics.  I'll also make a couple more camisoles as they will be nice to wear under my hand knit sweaters.

I really had fun getting involved in the Lingerie contest again and my sewing mojo is back.  I haven't knitted all week (that is bad!)  I'm contemplating joining the Vintage Pattern contest for November.

A bra that fits - Kwik Sew 3594

It took me a few days, and a few modifications, but I have an almost perfect fitting bra.  Not 100% perfect as there are a few techniques I still need to work on.

The cover of the the Kwik Sew 3594 pattern is quite boring and utilitarian, the band is horizontal, but I had such good luck with the 34D that I had to run with it.

The tweaks I made were to make the cup the tiniest bigger.  I added about 1/4" to the apex in the lower cup, then spread the upper cup to match.  I also raised the underarm seam about 3/8".  I added maybe 1/2" to the band in the back.

I put it on at the same time as my favorite Wacoal bra, and it looks like I maybe need to raise the underarm still another 1/4" to 1/3".  I also did not add boning to the side, as I didn't have any at the time, but I do prefer the boning.  I also didn't need the extra 1/2" on the back of the band.

One other area for me to work on is no band under the bottom of the cups, I need to sew the elastic closer as it will roll on me (just a wee bit chubby in that area.)  I also need better strapping materials, in fact, I really need to do some online shopping.

I'm wearing it right now and will wear it all day.

The other day I hit the thrift shop and actually purchased 3 bras and a bustier (for the boning).  Turns out the bottom bra in the picture fits me perfectly.  The tag says Venus 80D and I haven't looked up the equivalent size. The middle bra is a 36D and the cup is too flat for me, and the top pink bra fits well too, though I can't read the size.  And funny thing is, I didn't try any on, just bought them to examine and for parts. 

And I really like the side boning on the bottom bra, the Venus 80D, it has double boning.  I will definitely want to try that myself.

The Bra Saga ~ a new muslin

I had intended to show what a marvelous masking tape "boob" dummy I had made (and yes, I do have the photos) but when I went to cut it up, it was still too curvy.

So I went to the drawing board and decided to start from scratch.  Oh...I have a pattern that I've never used, a quite "unattractive" bra pattern, to say the least.

Here it is.  Kwik Sew 3594.

Quite blah and boring, and very utilitarian looking, don't you think?  But look harder, doesn't it look just like the Wacoal bra in my previous post that I LOVE so much.  I guess I never realized my seam runs horizontally, maybe it's just the way my bosom works best.

So....I decided to start from scratch like I said, and follow a new pattern.  I cut out the size 34 D (my current size) and followed the instructions.  I don't know about you, but it's sometimes hard to follow instructions when you know so much.

Guess what, I'm wearing it now...3 hours later.  I purposely made sure none of the colors matched, that I used odd bobbins of thread and laces.  And it fits damn well.  

Of course, I did learn something.  I learned WHY we used plush elastics...this thing itches.  

My goal in the next week is to make up a couple more.  Keep it simple, work on my technique and fit.  Then I would like to branch out and make it more perfect.

I'm attaching the photos.  Yes, that's me in all my chubby belly glory.  The point is that it fits. There is a microscopic bit of too smallishness right at the center front where the band doesn't sit absolutely against my sternum.  Guess what...my fave bra doesn't either.  I'm going to attempt to add the little bit to the size before I switch fabrics.

Back to sewing - back to bra making

Wow, long time no chat.

I've decided to put the old sewing machine back into gear and decided to start with bras. Just a short rundown on what I've done, later updates will be better, as they are a good form of record keeping. I redid my measurements and pulled out the full-band pattern by BraMakers Supply. I've done this pattern quite a few times in the past. My current measurements fall outside of the pattern range, too small now. I worked on some modifications, made up 2 muslins. Bra one was too small, just a bit. Bra two was just deformed. I'm also noticing a big underwire dilema.

My favorite bra (photo below) has underwires that are so tough and stiff, they don't move, and I like that. The ones I have are much more flexible. I'm going to do a lot of sample purchasing in the near future, or I'll just have to learn to make my own (yes, it's gone through my head.

My new plan is to purchase a new pattern, more underwires, and lots of elastics and work on this.

Today I will put on my best fitting bra and add lots of masking take on it to see if I can get a perfect fit and actually make my own pattern. Other things I've noticed when comparing my favorite bra, is that the elastics are not as big, the powernet is soft (two layers of thin powernet) and the whole thing feels less heavy duty, except for the underwires.

Here's a photo. It's the Wacoal Retro Chic Full-Busted Underwire Bra. As you can tell it is a seamed bra, so I should be able to get a good pattern fit. Wish me luck. I'll post again soon.

Sewing Panties

I decided to sew 4 pairs of the same sized panties hoping the 4 girls in this family could each try them on, see how they fit, etc. and then maybe I can sew some more....oh, just for fun.

HAH!

I really am not crazy about sewing panties. Now it could be due to the fact that I used tricot, a not-fun fabric to sew. I have problems with the slipperiness and then the stretching of the elastic. I guess it takes practice.

I'm thinking though that I will try my old sewing machine as the feeddog are set wider on my newer one, which makes it hard to grab the fabric.

I made 3 pairs with the picot elastic and I don't like the outcome. Even washed the elastic did not get smaller. Maybe the tricot is too light to handle the weight of the elastic.

I do like the single other pair I made with the light elastic lace.

We'll see what the girls have to say.

Bra done

I can't tie or make a bow for the life of me. This is obviously something I have to learn.

Here is my completed bra on the teenie tiny mannequin. It fits wonderfully in the cups, I still have too much looseness (only a tad) under the arm. I am going to redraft that part of the pattern.



Edited to add the bow I just made (rather than a new blog post.)


I have the bra on right now, the cups fit amazingly well. The band is perfect though it will need about 1/2" removed at the band edge of the cup right under the arm.

It's also somewhat itchy, at the back where the straps connect. The back of the straps fold over the ring, and I'm feeling that scratchy lace. That will be something to think about in the future. No lace (cheap scratchy kind) should be touching my body.

Also, I had to remove the channeling top-stitching along the cup edge as I was not able to get the underwire in. That was a real pain as it was tiny black stitches on that black lace. If I shorten underwires I'll probably not be able to have two lines of top-stitching, or will have to at least think about it ahead of time.

Shortening Underwires

In The Bra-makers Manual by Beverly Johnson the only information about shortening underwires that I could find is on p. 91 where she says you might need wire cutters to cut the wires and to use "Household Goop" to cover the ends. She also says that's the best product to use as it holds up in the wash and that she tried other products.

The underwires I ordered from Sew Sassy fit me perfectly under the breast except for being too long. Plus each bra you sew might be a bit higher or lower under the arm or between the breasts, so learning how to adjust an underwire can be necessary.

I typed "household goop" into Google and found what I think I was looking for, but couldn't find it a Walmart or Lowes but there was a tube at Home Depot for around $3.00.

There are no exact instructions on how to apply it so I just went for it. First I kinda sorta got a glop on each end, allowed it dry for a minute or so and then worked it a bit with my fingers (it didn't stick) into shape. A short while later I added another glop and did it again. I found a container to set the wires in to dry thoroughly (not sure how long that will be) and attempted to take photos. That was the hard part actually.

I'll let you know how well it works when I go to insert the wires. Obviously the tip has to be small enough to get through the channeling.


Glop of Goop on the ends.


The product I'm using and the way I'll let the Goop dry.


A close up of the Goop worked into a nice rounded shape, all done with my fingertip.

A pretty little number

I'm having fun working on another version of the PinUp Girls bra. This one is with purple tricot and black lace. I'm not done yet as the underwires I just bought are a bit too long (and my older ones too short.) Time to order yet some more. I plan on cutting them down and "gooping" the ends for now.





While I was patiently waiting for my goodies to arrive from SewSassy (I had great service btw and the items are all terrific...) I started on another bra, using a different pattern.

I made this pattern for my smaller busted daughter some time back. It's KwikSew3300, and I made the 38D, as the cup should be the same as the 36DD (which the pattern doesn't have.) Then I plan on just shortening the back band 1" as I like a 37" in band. We'll see what happens.

The fabric is from a half slip I bought at GoodWill and the lace too. I don't have channeling or elastic to match so the plan is to try to make up a "blush" colored dye with coffee and KoolAid. I won't get to that for a few days yet.

Here's where I am so far. No clue how it fits but the cups do fit over my bust well enough if I hold it up to me.



I finally took photos of what I bought at the Sewing Expo when it was here just a week or so ago.

Jacket photo and bra sewing photos

I wish I had the talent (or the desire) to do lovely wonderful technique posts...but alas, I don't. I take pictures then look at them afterwards and say to myself "who cares?" Yet I enjoy looking at the photos (and descriptions) that others post.

Okay, so it's not really my thing. But it is fun to see the close-up photos, so I will work on taking those, and I will try to take some photos of the "innards" also.

But for tonight I have a photo of the Fushia Lambswool jacket I finished. I wore it out tonight and had a quick photo taken first. Why is it that you put a garment on that you've sewn, and it fits well and you feel good wearing it, and then you see the photo and you go UGH!!!

The jacket feels good, okay, so it's a bit snug over the abdomen, I obviously don't have it zipped up, so who cares, or who knows. I'm just not happy with the photo. The other photo I had showed the jacket in a nicer view, but I looked like the wicked witch, which though appropriate for the Halloween season, doesn't make me happy to look at on a day to day basis.


I did the 2nd PinUp Girls bra today with minor alterations. Yesterday I did a straight 36E, today I did a 37E, added a bit at the CF cup, took a tiny bit out of the CF band and a few slight tucks in the cup. Adding the 1" under the arm was a good idea, but the other alterations didn't really help anything and there is a very small gaping at the front cup now.

I've decided that it's due to the underwires being a size too small (narrow) and I will order a bunch of new ones.

The photos I have are just close ups of techniques, so you can be nosy like I am.

This photo is the cup seam after it is top stitched and now being trimmed. Plus you can see that I'm trying to grow my nails out (it looks longer in this photo than in real life.) The color is OPI Catherine the Grape, a great plum color for fall, plus it matches my fushia jacket...lol.


Here you can see the top stitching on the cups and the cups sewn to the band. The channeling has been sewn on and the 1st row of top stitching done. The channeling does not need 2 rows of top stitching, but it is often done this way.


Here I am doing a small zigzag stitch on the elastic ruffle that is the décolletage trim. It gets folded back and zigzagged on from the top to finish the edge.


Here's the area I was sewing in, along with a good horror movie on Netflix. Oh, the movie was "The Haunting in Connecticut" if you are interested.

Analyzing bra fit

I'm wearing my new pink bra right now, just to see how things feel and fit. Last night it seemed a bit tight, today the band feels better and I have a few minor folds near the front of my arms, but I still have a small basket in the front.

I really hate to post the photos as I'm in "fat mode" right now, yet I know how helpful photos are that others post, so I'm just going to be brave.

Here's a photo of the "basket" which is pulling away from my chest. I'm also wondering if the center front needs to be a bit narrower. The channeling touches each other in the center front, but the channeling is also a bit wider than what I've used before.


Here's the photo of the bra on me. The more wrinkly side is the arm holding up the camera. You can also see the fatty armpit and back fat I have. Not a pretty site. In the photo it looks like the bra is too low under my arm, it really isn't. But at the same time I wonder about sewing a bra with more support under the arm. That is an area I really need support in. Bras tend to feel loose under the arm and tight at the lower band. Guess that has to do with my body shape. The slight fold shows clearly on the left side of the photo. I try to tuck my excess fat into the bra, but it doesn't stay there.


The fix for the basket is going up a cup size. But I've been looking at the pattern pieces and comparing the sizes and the F cup seems gigantic. But I can always just sew it and see how it fits. What's the worst that happens...I make a bra that's too big and fits comfortably when I'm wearing it at home.

Yet I still have folds to deal with, minor ones which probably wouldn't even be there if I was using a spandex based fabric.

Not sure what to do....off to examine pattern pieces some more.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I'm editing to add that I think the issue is somewhat related to the underwire size. The underwires I have seem to be a bit small right now (as I've gained some weight back.) If I go up a cup size, or even partially, the undewire will be too small. Guess it's time to buy some different underwires.

Doing the bra thing again

Just finished up my review for a bra on Pattern Review. Sorry, but I won't rewrite it, so here's the link:
Pin Up Girls Bra Review

Photos though, those I'll show.




It fits almost perfectly. You know how it is, the boobs grow and shrink, I eat too much of this or that, etc...it's a tad tad tiny teeny bit too small. The plan is to make another, just a bit bigger with the same fabric.

Then to make it again with stretchier fabrics.

Sounds simple enough to me.