Friday, January 3, 2014

Bodice muslin is complete - now on to the real thing

I did a new adjustment today (once again, no photos yet) and made a larger sleeve.  My bodice is basically a 40" C cup bust, but I made a 44 sleeve, which is 15 inches at the bicep.  Even though the size that is for my bust fit by ease, it just was too tight.

I seriously was lying in bed this morning wondering why I hadn't thought to use Peggy Sager's idea of a larger sleeve and larger armscye in a bodice that fits.  I couldn't wait to get home from work to figure this out.

I was able to redraw on the muslin I had made, cut out new sleeves (short ones) and the fit was great!

So this weekend I will attempt my first SureFit Designs top using the muslin I created.  My plan is to make a tunic length top with a convertible collar (still need to draft) and 3/4 sleeves with some sort of hem option (no clue here yet.)

I think the designing is harder than the fitting.  Since I just did the convertible collar on the Ottobre blouse (the sheer blue one) it's still fresh in my mind.

Or I can do the blouse #600 from Silhouette Patterns, which actually would be easier as it has no facings.  I think that is my plan.  I can save the separate collar stand for a later date.

Wish me luck, I hope to have photos to share soon.

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Alterations to the muslin include the following:
rounded upper back ~3/4"
forward neck (removed about 1/2" from the front neckline)
Sloped right shoulder ~ 3/8"
Forward Shoulders (both) ~ 5/8"
Shorten mid back length and added to back hem.
Size 44 sleeve in size 40 bodice (used size 44 armscye)

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