No photos today, just some ramblings.
A while back I was working on fitting a good bodice for myself, but got sidetracked as I seem to have more fitting issues than I want to deal with. Then I was watching the Silhouette Pattern webcasts, and Peggy says just make her pattern.
Which I did, but it still was a lot of work.
I'm back to working on my sloper bodice which I drafter from my SureFit Designs kit.
I swear, every single day my bust or waist or hips is a different measurement (okay, so I've put on a few pounds again...I'll admit it).
I drafted for a 40 bust, 35 waist (ouch) and 40 hips and C cup. I drew out the bodice and some of the hip using the Dress kit.
Made up my muslin and got to work on the fitting alterations.
My first adjustment is a rounded back, about 3/4-1" (I don't remember exactly) but that keeps me from choking and brings the shoulder a bit forward.
But now my back is a bit too long, so I take out about 3/4" in the mid back (long dart across) and now it fits great.
I put in the sleeves but things are all wonky, take out the sleeves.
With some more work and experimentation I come up with a 3/8" sloped shoulder on the right shoulder only, then 5/8" forward shoulder on both.
That seems pretty good, so I work this out on the sleeve too, shaving off extra fabric on the back sleeve.
Funny thing is, these are all alterations I do regularly, just fudging as I go.
I drew this all out on my paper pattern, even separate left/right fronts and backs.
Tomorrow I'll make up a new muslin, so wish me all the best.
Fitting the bodice can be challenging. Ask me how I know? slope shoulders, narrow back, swayback short waist. Good luck and don't give up, walk away for a little while. Each time you make an adjustment and make a new muslin, you are improving your fitting and alterations skills. Once you have a wearable bodice, work with it and each garment you make the fit will become better and better.
ReplyDeleteWe sound like body twins. It's not fun and I don't make all m=those adjustments on every pattern but so worth it to have a wonderful TNT in the end.
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