I'm following the Palmer/Pletsch method for paper fitting, will make a muslin, and then go on to my fabric and lining.
I posted the pattern before and also the similar style from the Chico's catalog, so scroll down for the Chico's design.
The pattern is Simplicity 3628. It is a shoulder princess seam with a very simple collar and one-piece sleeve. The pattern also has instructions for the lining.

I measured my high bust as per P/P and got 36". This is a size 14. It seems to correspond well as I tend to have to make my back narrower, which I never do right, I end up scooping out part of the armhole area, which is probably a no no.
Since I know my waist will be about a size 20 (gasp) and my hips a size 16, I blended the size 14 upper chest, into the size 16 waist and hips. The pattern was 10,12, 14, 16.
Like I said, I'm following the steps. So I'm currently marking the seam allowances with purple ink and will place the tape as instructed, pin it together and will photograph for my first fitting.
Alterations I know I will have to do include an FBA, an upper rounded back of about 1/2", and possibly a swayback adjustment (or a big butt adjustment.) I will have to add at the waist too, but would like to be able to create the idea of some curves.
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