Dansez

Nothing is more satisfying than a sweater all completed and blocked.  This is called Dansez from Knit to Flatter by Amy Herzog.  I made a size 36, though it's a 38 over the hips (my standard knitting fix.)  The yarn is madelinetosh Alpaca Sport, which was given to me by Jennifer.  She didn't like the color, and I think it's great.

A Vintage Jacket - Simplicty 5623 (dated 1964)

I've decided to do the Vintage Pattern Contest to keep me moving in the right direction...SEWING. I hauled myself over to Fabric Recycles (a cool store here in KC) and searched through all the patterns.  I came home with three, and the one I'm doing for the contest is a Channel-inspired jacket.  I can so see the ladies in the '60's making this out of a double knit polyester.

Here's the pattern, Simplicity 5623, dated 1964 (I was born in 1963, how cool is that?)

I found a size 16, which has the following measurements:

Bust 36"

Waist 28"

Hips 38"

Today a size 16 Simplicity pattern has the following measurements:

Bust 38"

Waist 30"

Hips 40"

After doing a muslin, it seemed to fit just fine, but my upper chest is 35 inches or so, and it's a boxy style.

Look how nice it is to have a pattern without a gazillion lines on it:

My pockets are lined and I used the selvedge for trim and will also use it down the front.  I cut off the selvedge about 1/4" into the fabric, which I folded over and pressed.

I wasn't totally "vintage" as I used fusible interfacing:

So far so good. I'm right now working on tacking the facing to the front/back using a hemming stitch.  The lining will be sewn on the traditional way (not bagged).

Lingerie Contest

I got my entry for the Pattern Review Lingerie Contest completed last night.  Here's the link to the review.

It's the same bra as in the previous posts, just a different fabric, no major changes to the pattern, just the center front on the fold instead of a seam.

I also did a review of Kwik Sew 2467, camisole and panties.  The pattern also includes a slip.  I found the pattern simple and straight forward.  I really like that the panties have a single back seam, so I want to really work on this pattern to make separate TNTs for different fabrics.  I'll also make a couple more camisoles as they will be nice to wear under my hand knit sweaters.

I really had fun getting involved in the Lingerie contest again and my sewing mojo is back.  I haven't knitted all week (that is bad!)  I'm contemplating joining the Vintage Pattern contest for November.

A bra that fits - Kwik Sew 3594

It took me a few days, and a few modifications, but I have an almost perfect fitting bra.  Not 100% perfect as there are a few techniques I still need to work on.

The cover of the the Kwik Sew 3594 pattern is quite boring and utilitarian, the band is horizontal, but I had such good luck with the 34D that I had to run with it.

The tweaks I made were to make the cup the tiniest bigger.  I added about 1/4" to the apex in the lower cup, then spread the upper cup to match.  I also raised the underarm seam about 3/8".  I added maybe 1/2" to the band in the back.

I put it on at the same time as my favorite Wacoal bra, and it looks like I maybe need to raise the underarm still another 1/4" to 1/3".  I also did not add boning to the side, as I didn't have any at the time, but I do prefer the boning.  I also didn't need the extra 1/2" on the back of the band.

One other area for me to work on is no band under the bottom of the cups, I need to sew the elastic closer as it will roll on me (just a wee bit chubby in that area.)  I also need better strapping materials, in fact, I really need to do some online shopping.

I'm wearing it right now and will wear it all day.

The other day I hit the thrift shop and actually purchased 3 bras and a bustier (for the boning).  Turns out the bottom bra in the picture fits me perfectly.  The tag says Venus 80D and I haven't looked up the equivalent size. The middle bra is a 36D and the cup is too flat for me, and the top pink bra fits well too, though I can't read the size.  And funny thing is, I didn't try any on, just bought them to examine and for parts. 

And I really like the side boning on the bottom bra, the Venus 80D, it has double boning.  I will definitely want to try that myself.

The Bra Saga ~ a new muslin

I had intended to show what a marvelous masking tape "boob" dummy I had made (and yes, I do have the photos) but when I went to cut it up, it was still too curvy.

So I went to the drawing board and decided to start from scratch.  Oh...I have a pattern that I've never used, a quite "unattractive" bra pattern, to say the least.

Here it is.  Kwik Sew 3594.

Quite blah and boring, and very utilitarian looking, don't you think?  But look harder, doesn't it look just like the Wacoal bra in my previous post that I LOVE so much.  I guess I never realized my seam runs horizontally, maybe it's just the way my bosom works best.

So....I decided to start from scratch like I said, and follow a new pattern.  I cut out the size 34 D (my current size) and followed the instructions.  I don't know about you, but it's sometimes hard to follow instructions when you know so much.

Guess what, I'm wearing it now...3 hours later.  I purposely made sure none of the colors matched, that I used odd bobbins of thread and laces.  And it fits damn well.  

Of course, I did learn something.  I learned WHY we used plush elastics...this thing itches.  

My goal in the next week is to make up a couple more.  Keep it simple, work on my technique and fit.  Then I would like to branch out and make it more perfect.

I'm attaching the photos.  Yes, that's me in all my chubby belly glory.  The point is that it fits. There is a microscopic bit of too smallishness right at the center front where the band doesn't sit absolutely against my sternum.  Guess what...my fave bra doesn't either.  I'm going to attempt to add the little bit to the size before I switch fabrics.

Back to sewing - back to bra making

Wow, long time no chat.

I've decided to put the old sewing machine back into gear and decided to start with bras. Just a short rundown on what I've done, later updates will be better, as they are a good form of record keeping. I redid my measurements and pulled out the full-band pattern by BraMakers Supply. I've done this pattern quite a few times in the past. My current measurements fall outside of the pattern range, too small now. I worked on some modifications, made up 2 muslins. Bra one was too small, just a bit. Bra two was just deformed. I'm also noticing a big underwire dilema.

My favorite bra (photo below) has underwires that are so tough and stiff, they don't move, and I like that. The ones I have are much more flexible. I'm going to do a lot of sample purchasing in the near future, or I'll just have to learn to make my own (yes, it's gone through my head.

My new plan is to purchase a new pattern, more underwires, and lots of elastics and work on this.

Today I will put on my best fitting bra and add lots of masking take on it to see if I can get a perfect fit and actually make my own pattern. Other things I've noticed when comparing my favorite bra, is that the elastics are not as big, the powernet is soft (two layers of thin powernet) and the whole thing feels less heavy duty, except for the underwires.

Here's a photo. It's the Wacoal Retro Chic Full-Busted Underwire Bra. As you can tell it is a seamed bra, so I should be able to get a good pattern fit. Wish me luck. I'll post again soon.

Time for Spring

Geez, seat cushions for the patio are expensive, and many are ugly.  So I'm deciding to make my own.  Found fabric and cushioning today.

The before photo of the table is just to show how horribly obnoxious things are before being fixed up.  Let's see, hangers were from recently unraveled yarn, which you can see hanging on the chair.  A few odd tool are there tool.  I already have the spray paint to repaint the black tables and chairs.